There are several types of hoods known to be from
the 14th century. Some of these hoods were found
at the Thames River archaelogical digs and published in
the Museum of London Textiles and
Clothing book and some in Norlunds book on the finds in
Herjolfsnes in Greenland. There are other extant hoods
known to us.
For a survey of known hoods and hood patterns,
please visit Marc Carlson's site, Some Clothing of the
Middle Ages.
Click
here to see the patterns.
This hood pattern is based on the London finds, Hood type #4.
You will need to have some idea on how to draft a pattern. The best
place I know online for the basics is The
Renaissance Tailor. There are
not diagrams on how to draft for a hood but you should get the idea that
you need to measure everything.
From Marc Carlson's site: Some Clothing of the Middle Ages |
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Please click on small thumbnail images to download a larger image in a new window/tab
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| Step 1.
You will first need to get your measurements.
As you can see here, while I know lots about drafting patterns for clothing, I had a bit
of trouble with the hood. The paper is the first draft, the fabric is the mockup
drastically cut down and then pinned.
You will need three main pattern pieces. The hood body (cut
2), the gussets for front, back, and sides (cut 4), and the
liripipe. This is the long tail that hangs down the back. The length
of the liripipe depends on the decade or century. Some liripipes in 1350
France were so long that they were tied into a series of knots to keep
them from dragging the ground. For the period of the Luttrell Psalter
2 - 24" would be sufficient. This is one long tube. |
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Step 2. Once the mock up fits, cut your fashion
fabric |
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Step 3. Cut your gussets |
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| Step 4.
Insert your gussets. This is tricky and
works better if you curve your triangle top and ease it
around. I use lots of pins. |
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| Step 5.
I wasn't happy with the point of the inserted gusset so I reinforced it
with perl cotton. That said I have seen no evidence for this particular
period that implies that they made even and perfectly pointed "points." They
appear to be most rounded in some way. |
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Step 6. The gussets are in. You will want to sew
on the liripipe. Then sew up the back seam.
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| Step 7.
This illustrates what will eventually be
a row of buttonholes. I have not hemmed the botton edge
as this wool is very fulled, coat wool, and will not unravel.
I could also dag the edges at this point. |
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| Step 8.
I have lined the front of the hood so that
when it folds back there is nice frame to the face. There
are some images in the Luttrell Psalter that show hoods
with different colors inside. Whether this was a full lining
or just partial as here, it matters not if your wool is
not scratchy. |
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| Step 9.
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| Step 9.
You can see here where the front gore meets the button placket. |
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The finished (okay, without the buttons) hood. This color is probably the closest to the actual color of all the pictures. |
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