The image to the right is a basic diagram of how I layout a kirtle on my fabric. This varies depending on the width of the fabric.

The lavender pieces are the pattern pieces needed, at minimum for a kirtle.

The yellow areas reflect where fitting will occur during the construction phase of your kirtle and are an approximation of what your scraps will look like.

The numbers correspond to the following:

• Back pieces - shoulder width halved plus 1/2" seam allowance (1/4" on each side.) This narrow seam allowance allows the garment to fit more closely to the body. Any additional fitting needs will occur in the construction phase (kirtle page 3) and will happen with piece 3. Cut 2.
  
  Measure:
  across: back shoulder to shoulder ÷ 2 + 1"
  down: shoulder to hem + 1"
  
  
• Front pieces - shoulder width halved plus 1/2" seam allowance. Cut 2
  
  Measure:
  across: front shoulder to shoulder ÷ 2 + 1"
  down: shoulder to hem + 1" (if you want your hem to trail, add inches here)
  
  
• Side Gores - The narrow width is the following formula: total bust measurement at the widest point - your front + back measurements and then divided by four +1" + seam allowance. The 1" and the angle will allow you to fit your kirtle once you are in the construction phase. This will make more sense when we get there. Cut 4, 6 or 8 as you like. Adjust accordingly if you cut 6 or 8. You will divide by 6 or 8 instead of 4.
  
  Measure:
  across: bust - shoulder width divided by 4 + 1" (for instance, 42 (bust) - 32 (shoulder) = 10 divided by 4(# of gores) = 2.5 +1" = 3.5". Make your side gores at least 4" at the top so there is room to fit).
  down: shoulder to hem + 1" (if you want your hem to trail, add inches here)
  
  
• Front and back gores - waist to floor for front and lower back to floor for back. I cut two sets of the smaller pieces to use as extra side gores for my fuller hips. You may or may not need to do this.
  
  Measure:
  across: make at wide at the hem as you have fabric for. See diagram.
  down: waist to hem + 1" (if you want your hem to trail, add inches here)
  
  

• Sleeves The small triangular pieces will be inserted at the back of the shoulder for fit. You may use them both (2 per sleeve), only one, or need to use three. This will depend entirely on your body and how tight you want your sleeves at the upper arm. The size of the triangular gores will be determined by the difference between your armscye measurement (which you determine during fitting on page 4) and the top of your sleeve.
  
  You will meaure your arm length (top of shoulder to wrist). This is longest part of the sleeve.
  
  Then measure around your bicep while your arm is at your side. This is the width of your sleeve at the widest part. (picture forthcoming). You will need to create the curve yourself. I draw a line across the top of the sleeve and then a mark 1.5" above and one 1/5" below. I then trace a curve moving from the top to the bottom. I try to not have a greater difference more than 2.5" or 3" top to bottom on the curve.
  
  The sleeve has a button placket that rests on your forearm. This placket is created on the seam, which runs, not under your arm but from back of your shoulder blade to your outside wrist. This is why the sleeve pattern looks different from a modern sleeve which has a seam that is directly under your arm from pit to underside of wrist.
  
  Measure:
  down: shoulder to wrist + 1"
  around: bicep to determine top width, wrist to determine bottom width, forearm below elbow to determine where to begin decrease + 1" each

If you plan well here, you will find that the only waste you have is where you cut away the yellow areas. Everything else should be usuable for creating pouches, garters, or applique for other projects. The goal here is to conserve your precious fabric, expensive even by today's standards.