There are several types of seams known to be
used in the 14th century. Many of the seams are quite intriquite
and surprisinglingly inventive. For the purposes of this
website, I will cover the simplest seam constructions that
are found. The seams are found from Greenland to Germany
and are common across many times and locations.
I will concentrate of how to create these seams by hand
and not by machine.
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Seam Type 1
- Tacked down seam allowance
Step 1. Begin as you would for a flat felled seam.
Using a running
stitch you will sew a seam with about a 1/2"
seam allowance
Step 2. Completed running stitch seam
Step 3.. This image shows what this seam looks
like sewn down with either running stitch (left) or whip
stitch (right). Both are very period and sometimes one
garment uses both techniques. In fact, most garments use many
different seam techniques.
Step 4. This is what this seam looks like from
the outside of the fabric. Basically no difference.
Seam Type 2 -
Flat Felled Seam, Sort of
This is not a true flat felled seam as the raw egde is not
turned under in the final step.
Step 1.. Using a running
stitch you will sew a seam with about a 1/2"
seam allowance
Step 2. Continue in this fashion until you complete
the seam.
Step 3. A completed running stitch seam
Step 4. Clip one side of the seam so that the
second side easily covers it and lays flat. This is an
example of sewing the seam allowance down with a whip
stitch.
Step 5. This is an example of sewing the seam
allowance down with a running stitch.
Seam Type 3
- French Seam, again, sort of
Step 1.. Begin as you would for a flat felled seam.
Using a running
stitch you will sew a seam with about a 1/2"
seam allowance
,
Step 2.. Begin tucking your raw edges into the
seam.
You can also simply whip stitch the raw edges together
without tucking them inside. The fabric I am using usually
dictates how I finish.
Fulled wool gets a whipped raw edge.
Linen gets a tucked then whipped edge.
Step 3. Another view of the raw edges being tucked
in then stitched
Seam Type 4 -
Singling - This is an interesting
"seam" found on the Greenland gowns and described in
Woven into the Earth
This method is a very interesting treatment of hems. The author of
Woven into the Earth, Else Ostergard, calls all parts
of a garment that have stitching of some kind, a
seam, even unsewn hems. It must be a European definition
because in the States we don't refer to hems as seams,
sewn or not. This "seam" reinforces the raw edge without
turning it back in the way we modernly treat hems.
This is sewn using a series of running
stitches in a serpentine line.
This photo shows Singling from the wrong side of the fabric, the
working side for this method.
This is what Singling looks like from
the right, outer, side of the fabric.
This method typically was used in conjunction with one of the following
methods of finishing.
1. Tablet woven edging (2 -3 cards using 2 threads per card)
2. A finger looped braid or cord whip stitched onto the edge
3. A method referred to as foot weaving, or Slynging, a technique
I have not yet figured out.